Ready for the Shop

"K-Roll-PorscheTamer" (k-roll390)
07/04/2017 at 20:52 • Filed to: 931Lyfe

She’s insured and most if not of the surface rust I could find has been rectified today. I admit this is the first I’ve seen the car in broad daylight but it isn’t too bad. She’s ready to be towed to Munks after work tomorrow.

DISCUSSION (10)

Urambo Tauro > K-Roll-PorscheTamer
07/04/2017 at 21:09

What are they going to do with it? Just the fuel pump thing, or more?

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Urambo Tauro
07/04/2017 at 21:27

They’re gonna find whatever’s wrong with it first.

Wacko > K-Roll-PorscheTamer
07/04/2017 at 21:27

Are there holes under those round reflectors?

They always looked out of place to me.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > Wacko
07/04/2017 at 22:29

There are no holes. They’ve looked out of place to me as well, but I’ve just accepted them.

notsomethingstructural > K-Roll-PorscheTamer
07/04/2017 at 23:57

What do you use to prime after you sand the rust off? I have rust bullet but I hate it. Builds absurdly high and if you try to skim it down while it’s tacky then it flashes underneath like 2 days later.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > notsomethingstructural
07/05/2017 at 00:18

For the sunroof I used rustoleum primer and enamel which I’d used on the 944's struts and they survived two years looking pretty good including some winter fun. For the smaller ones I just sanded as much as I could, applied rust converter, and touched up with a lot of dr colorchip because there was no way I was gonna spray it and make it look good. It doesn’t even look that great now. I just wanted the rust repaired as best as possible.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > notsomethingstructural
07/05/2017 at 00:18

notsomethingstructural > K-Roll-PorscheTamer
07/05/2017 at 15:08

Yeah I really don’t want to spray, which is why I went with the brush-on Rust Bullet, but like I said, OEM paint is like 5 mils thick and the rust bullet builds for 4 mil coats so it’s impossible to “keep inside the lines” and below the surface of the adjacent paint.

I have rust converter but forgot to use it, that’s the other thing I’m planning to add when I re-sand it. Though I did get it to bright clean steel, so not sure it would have done anything with no ferrous material to react with.

I might say “fuck it” and get rustoleum self-etching brush applied primer/filler and immediately touch-up with the Mazda pen right after applying. I don’t know. Trying to figure this shit out can be a pain, since I really have no idea what the best primer for this application is. Clean metal, no rust, needs to be sandable, not sprayed. Should be easy, but nothing ever is.

K-Roll-PorscheTamer > notsomethingstructural
07/05/2017 at 17:55

Brushing isn’t a bad idea. I didn’t know they had brush-on primers and such. I’d gladly use that instead of spray and say screw the looks because preventing rust is No.1 before worrying about how the paint looks. The brush on paint has been holding up better than. The spray from the looks of it too.

notsomethingstructural > K-Roll-PorscheTamer
07/05/2017 at 18:25

I think if I was doing non-body stuff I would use the brush-on inhibitor straight from the can since it’s nice and thick, and do a few beefy coats.

If I was shooting a whole body panel, I would probably still use it as a one-step sandable primer where it’ll build well to the surface of the paint and be pretty hard afterwards. I tried to sand the rust bullet on a different project, and it’s pretty resilient.

With this being touch-up, I’m leaning toward getting a self-etching primer from Eastwood and brushing it on (it’s supposed to spray but people have said they brushed it with no ill effect), then using a sandable priming lacquer from Rustoleum which is supposed to be a little softer, knock it down a bit then topcoat with the Mazda pen and block sand.

I have no fucking clue what I am doing. But I’m planning on getting the car painted in a year or so anyways, so might as well try some things.